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Feeling really pooped after a full day of walking around Hanoi, Vietnam but wanted to keep my commitment to share a little more on how technology really makes travel a lot easier for these 2 black old lesbians.

Traveling from unknown city to unknown city we rely heavily on sites like Booking.com and Trip Advisor to select hotels that are affordable, well located and acceptable to our standards.  Carefully reading not just the description provided by the hotel but the reviews of actual guests is key.
We, then, in turn submit our reviews after our stays.

I also try to review any places (museums, temples restaurants ) we visit.  I am proud to say I am proud to say that I am a “senior contributer” on Trip Advisor and that over 5000 people have read my reviews.

Well, as I said, I’m pooped!  Traveling is hard work. So, goodbye for now. More on techie travel next week.

Remember the ‘bad old days’ of travel? For even a visit to one country you had to carry at least one guide book, a map, a phrase book and your own personal reading material.  Hotel and transportation reservations had to be made by phone or in person, by landline or even payphone (remember those?). The internet and smart phones have made, literally, a world of difference.

My next few posts will focus on some of the way we use the world wide web and some of the sites we have found most helpful. 

One of the things I love most about travel is meeting new people and making connections across nationality, class, and culture lines.  My lack of Southeast Asian languages makes this challenging.  The Google Translate app makes things somewhat easier. We were able to have a nice chat with these school girls in Hue, Vietnam using the app.  They had a translation app too and were able to ask us questions about our visit to Vietnam and our life in America.  On the 4 hour bus trip to Phong Nha Cave we had a great conversation with two gentlemen.  Between their pretty good English and the Google app we were able to talk about Buddhism in Vietnam and America, novels we all had read (Roots, Grapes of Wrath) and the reasons behind and devastation of war.  I highly recommend this app, especially because it not only gives you a written translation but a verbal one. This is especially helpful in Vietnam where tonality and inflection are extremely important.  Check out the app at
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.google.android.apps.translate

We love traveling and technology really makes a difference.  I look forward to sharing more next week on our favorites and would love to hear from you on yours.

“Red Diaper Baby” is the term for those born in the United States to parents who were members of (or sympathizers with) the Communist Party.  My parents were lifelong trade unionists, fighters for social and racial justice and staunch believers in socialist ideology.  Mom was indeed a member of the United States Communist Party.  This was something I learned early on not to share.  McCarthyism was at its height is the 1950s and Ethel and Julius Rosenberg were executed two years before my birth in 1955.  I remember the FBI coming to our home and how scared and outraged mom was.

Although mom grew disillusioned with communism and the party she never swayed from her commitment to social justice and equality.  I came of age in my mother’s home. She proudly encouraged my teenage involvement in anti Vietnam War protests, the Black Power Movement and even my attendance at “Love Ins” (yes, I’m that old!).  As an adult whenever I attended a protest rally or peace march, she always wanted to go along, even when she was wheel chair bound.  I am truly Muriel Crowe’s daughter and most of her ideals and values remain in me today.

So it was with a high sense of idealism and expectations that I entered my first socialist country,  Vietnam.   I felt a deep sense of reverence for all the lives lost in the war here and for the terrible devastation this country has experienced.  Vietnam is still a very poor country. I can clearly see, even from our brief time here, that it is far from a socialist utopia  (if such a thing even exists).  There are great inequities between rich and poor, extreme pressures from foreign powers and corruption. But it is a country that is healing, growing and thriving.  I have been missing mom so much this month. I would have loved to have seen Vietnam with her and to have heard her impressions.  I like to think of her in the ancestral realm in strong debate with Ho Chi Minh and her hero, Paul Robeson. 

Deciding to live a life of ‘home free’ travel was a joyful but not easy choice to make.  We sold or gave away most of our possessions, including our house, cars, artwork, clothes and beloved dog, Nemo.

When Kathy said I had to get my belongings down to one carry on size suitcase and a small tote bag I thought “no way”.  I am someone who had so many clothes I broke closet rods. I had drawers full of trinkets and accessories.  But I wanted to travel more than I wanted things.  I confess, I kind of cheated in packing.  I used vacuum bags for my clothes and crammed my suitcase full. I bought the biggest tote bag I could find and stuffed it with toiletries, gadgets and other stuff I thought I had to have.  We finally agreed to take an additional  large suitcase on the cruise.

The past three months of travel have been an exercise in letting go of more and more stuff. The extra suitcase, full of clothes, shoes and gadgets were given away to the Lions club in The Philippines before we got off the ship.  The great big tote bag, again full of clothes was left at our first stop: Singapore.  It was just too big and bulky to carry and I still had too many clothes.

In Chiang Mai we made some purchases we thought were necessary  (a tea kettle, hot pot, some blankets and pillows).  It was a joy to give those things (as well as more clothes) away to the lady whose place we ate at most frequently.  She will be able to use them for her family and her mosque.

Today, I am traveling light. I have enough clothes to last a week, a minimum of toiletries and comfortable walking shoes.  I have my E Reader/tablet, my phone and not else.  I can lift everything on and off trains without help.  Most importantly, I am finding out exactly how unimportant most THINGS are.  I don’t miss any of the things I have given away.  I do miss my family, friends and 12 step fellows but I always will have room for them  (YOU) in my heart.

Our time here in Chiang Mai, Thailand has come to a close.  Tomorrow night we board the overnight train to Bangkok and then fly into Vietnam.  We are loving Southeast Asia!  Really the only thing we miss is you all.  We would love visitors, especially to Malaysia or Thailand. We loved these countries so much we will return for longer stays.

Here is a very tentative sketch of our plans for 2016.  Maybe some of you will join us for a vacation, a honeymoon or even a longer stay.  Let us know, we would be happy to help you plan.
December 15  – January 15: Vietnam
January 15 – February 15: Laos and Cambodia
March 15 – April 15: Indonesia and the Philippines
April 15 – May 15: Malaysia
May 15 – June 15: Thailand and Myanmar
June 15 – August 15: China
August 15 – September 15: India
September 15 – November 1: The Middle East
November 1: Returning to the USA

If you’ve been following us on Facebook  (https://m.facebook.com/Bolt-803457456397914/) and or reading this blog, you probably already know why we love it here.  Here are some highlights of the reasons you might seriously consider a visit to Southeast Asia.  We’d love to see you soon!

Chiang Mai is an ancient city, over 700 years old.  It is also a very modern city with high end shopping malls, a super highway, high rise condominiums and traffic to rival any major U.S. city.

The original Chiang Mai is surrounded by a moat and a gate built in the 1290s, to prevent possible invasions from neighboring Burma (now Myanmar).  The city has now expanded far beyond these walls, to a large and vibrant metropolis of nearly one million people!

 

For me, there is something very powerful about living in a place that is so old. There are ruins of Buddhist temples every where and the gate and moat are constant reminders that I am walking through ancient streets. I feel safe and very much at peace here.

The gate and the moat serve a very practical purpose.  Kathy and I tend to get lost a lot but finding our way around Chiang Mai has been a breeze!  The moat and the gate are great landmarks for finding our way home. The moat is square,  with 4 corners and 4 gates.  We live just outside of Chang Phuak Gate,  Tai Pae Gate is east of us, Chiang Mai Gate is South and Sean Pung Gate is to our west.  We have enjoyed walks (about 45 minutes one way) to all of the gates.

We have one week left on this visit to Chiang Mai and I realized that the moat and gates are something I will miss a lot.  We will definitely return to this ancient, yet modern and comfortable city.

 

As promised,  this week’s blog is about things that are not easy to find in Chiang Mai. Some of these are vitally important to us and quite challenging to seek out.  However, their scarcity has not made us regret our time in Chiang Mai. In some cases, finding them has actually increased our joy here. Hopefully you will find this list helpful and entertaining.  Here goes…

Traffic Safety

Chiang Mai streets are very busy.  There are motorbikes, cars, tuk tuks and songthaews (a pick up truck adapted into a small bus for up to 10 passengers) everywhere.  We learned very quickly that pedestrians do not have the right of way. No vehicle will stop for you to cross the street. There are very few traffic lights and people often run them anyway. Because we are walking almost everywhere we had to figure out how to safely get across the street.  Here is what we have learned.
● Cross with locals when possible.  They are used to the traffic and you can safe follow their lead.
● Cross away from intersections.  Counterintuitive, right? Crossing in the middle of the street goes against everything I learned as a child but it is the safest place in Chiang Mai. Drivers can see you better and you avoid the cars that are rapidly turning corners from every lane.
● Cross in front of motorbikes and motorcycles.  This was hardest for me.  They seem to be coming at you with great speed and no intention of braking. That’s okay.  A motorbike or cycle can and will go around you. A speeding car can’t.  Wait until the oncoming traffic is two wheeled, take a deep breath and GO!

Products Free of Skin Bleach

Politically it makes me sad that Thais feel whiter skin is more beautiful.  Practically I know this is something I can not change but simply want to avoid for myself.  Skin bleaching ingredients seem to be in everything: shower gels, lotions and creams.  This includes products which are familiar from home.  So:
●Read the ingredients carefully as the main label doesn’t always say whiteners are included.
● Don’t buy any skin products that are not clearly labeled in English.
● Bring your favorite products from home (too late for us this time, lesson learned).

English Speaking Thais
As a privileged American, traveling in Asia,  I have been challenged by my expectations that I can find local people who speak English.  This challenge has actually been a great gift.  Learning and speaking a few Thai phrases, however poorly, results in beautiful smiles and in people willing to help me learn more.  I suggest:
● Try…even if you feel foolish or shy, practice a few new words daily.
● Install a translation app on your phone, I have Google Translate.
● Get a good language learning program and practice daily, before and during your trip.  Mango is a pretty good one and you can get it free from many libraries.  https://www.mangolanguages.com/

Sistah Sized Clothing

If you are blessed with hips and booty, Thai skirts, wraps and pants will be a snug fit. I searched and tried on things for a while to find these pants which are a loose and comfortable fit.  Blouses and tops are also small.  Most shopkeepers don’t mind you trying things however.

Sugar Free Stuff

I’m not a big soda drinker but I do enjoy a cooling sugar free iced tea or glass of crystal light.  Except in the really big grocery stores that cater to Westerners they are not to be found.  Same thing with diet sodas.  I’m drinking more water as a result,  so again this challenge is a blessing in disguise.

Black Folks

We travel a lot and are always on the lookout for our fellow travelers of African heritage.  I get hungry for the nod, the look, the love connection that often happens when I see another black person. This can be in the states and even in the motherland.  Chiang Mai doesn’t seem to have a lot of black folks,  not in the expat community nor as tourists.  Just as we were starting to feel the lack, a big group of folk from @nomadnesstribe (http://www.nomadnesstv.com) showed up to celebrate Yi Peng.  Then Kathy met a sister who has lived in Chiang Mai for over a year.  So, we are here if not in great numbers.  Again this challenge is truly a great blessing.  It makes my love, respect and connection with African folks across the diaspora even stronger and more appreciated.

YOU!
The main thing Chiang Mai doesn’t have is you. Let’s talk about that. Our time here will be up soon but we definitely want to return. We would love to plan a trip for like minded folk. If you are interested in joining us for travel to Thailand and other parts of Southeast Asia please let us know. Contact us at BOLTraveling@gmail.com or visit us on Facebook at https://m.facebook.com/Bolt-803457456397914/

Let’s make it happen!

I had a lot of expectations about Thailand in general and Chiang Mai specifically. Friendly people, delicious food, beautiful sights and the joy of exploring a new place.  These expectations have been well met.  I have had lots of surprises too. This post is about some of the things that are surprisingly,  EVERY WHERE,  in Chiang Mai.

Thai Food!
  Don’t laugh (well okay you can laugh) but I was really surprised and delighted at the abundance of Thai food.  Food stands seem to pop up, miraculously, in moments.  The variety is incredible.  I thought I knew Thai food but I have tried things here I never saw on a Thai restaurant menu in Los Angeles. Everything is really spicy and full of flavor. Some of my new favorites are daikon radish fried with egg (I don’t know the name), Khao Soi (a delicious curry noodle soup) and Mok Gai (a Muslim dish of curried rice topped with crispy onions and served with cucumbers, cilantro and a spicy sauce).  There are a couple of Halal places close to our house and I like going there.  There is a lot of pork in Chiang Mai dishes and as a vegetarian I like going places where at least the only meats served are fish and chicken.  Many of our local food vendors are getting to know me and my requests for vegetables only.  It’s cool!

The King!
This man is every where!  The people really love their king. His face is all over: on ornate signs through out the city, on T.V., on posters and photos in stores.  He is called Dad by the Thai people.  We went to a movie the other day (Mocking Jay Part 2). Before the movie began everyone stands in silence as the king’s anthem is played.  As an avowed socialist,  I have some feelings about this but I am not here to challenge the status quo. Kathy and I joined the audience in respectful silence and I actually enjoyed the beautiful song.

Temples!
Of course, I knew I was coming to a Buddhist country and was really looking forward to visiting a lot of temples.  I was not prepared, however,  for how many wats (temples) there actually are. Chiang Mai has over 300 Buddhist wats. It feels like there is one on almost every other block in the old city of Chiang Mai.  Even in the newer parts of the city temples abound.  It is so lovely to walk out our front door, stroll a few blocks and come upon peaceful places filled with Buddha statues, Kwan Yins, and a variety of other statuary, flowering plants and trees and other works of Buddhist art.

7-ELEVENs!
One of the more bizarre things that are ubiquitous in Chiang Mai are these convenience stores. They are everywhere and are handy stops for a cold drink, cell phones top ups or a snack.  They are very much like the ones in the states except that the snack selections are distinctly Thai.  An interesting fact: there are over 8,000 7-ELEVENs in Thailand.  The only country with more is…. (pausing for your guess)…
Japan!

Massages!
I am not exaggerating when I tell you there is an opportunity for a massage on every block in Chiang Mai Old City. Indoors, outdoors, at malls, night markets and in the park.  Foot massage,  hot oil massage, traditional Thai massage as well as hot stone and probably any other type of massage you can think of!  No wonder Thailand is known as the land of smiles.

The Wai
I love the wai!  Such a simple,  gentle way to pause and honor another human being.  The Wai is a slight bow, with the hands pressed together in prayer like fashion. Everyone wais. We wai along with saying “sawadee ka” (hello and farewell when spoken by a female) and “kop khun ka (thank you)”.  I have almost no Thai language skills but politeness,  anywhere,  goes a long way.

So, thank you so much for reading my random musings.  For my next post I’m thinking about “things that are hard to find in Chiang Mai”. 

Until then, be well,  and Peace, Love and Courage.
Marci Halili Akoma