Kathy and I played around with a lot of names before we decided on the acronym BOLT: Black Old Lesbians Traveling. We wanted something that spoke to the intersections of who we are and what we are about. Growing up in the 60s and 70s we experienced excitement, pride and much love for the Black power and pride movements. So the ‘B’ was easy. We are comfortable, out lesbians and traveling was and is our mission hence the ‘L’ and the ‘T’ were simple choices.
What about the ‘O’ though? We chose the ‘O’ intentionally, deciding to embrace and celebrate this time of our lives. For many people old continues to be a derogatory word. We continue to be told “but you’re not old” as if it’s some horrible slur. I’m old enough to remember when calling someone black was such a slur. Things change. I can’t imagine someone telling me “but you’re not black” when I proudly state I’m a black woman.
The OLOC (Old Lesbians Organizing for Change) statement on “why old” says it better than I can. “Society calls us Old behind our backs while calling us “Older” to our faces. “Old” has become a term of insult and shame. To be “Old” means to be ignored and scorned, to be made invisible and expendable.
We refute the lie that it is shameful to be an “Old” woman. We name ourselves “Old Lesbians” because we will no longer accommodate ourselves to language that implies in any way that “Old” means inferior.
We call ourselves OLD with pride. In doing so, we challenge the stereotypes directly. Thus, we empower and change ourselves, each other, and the world.”
So BOLT chooses to fully embrace the word old and to challenge the stereotypes and misconceptions around it. We also know there’s a lot of privilege, joy and a ton of humor in being old. Next blog will be about the specifics of traveling while old.
China! One of the most challenging and exhausting countries we’ve visited so far. It is also one of the most interesting and beautiful. Am I glad we went? Most definitely! Do I want to return anytime soon? Absolutely not! The following are my impressions of China. Kathy will blog about her impressions in an upcoming post.
Temple of the 8 Immortals, Xian, China
One of the best things for me about our Chinese visit was that my best friend, Lecia, came for part of the trip. We got to explore Beijing (The Great Wall and Forbidden Palace) and Xian (The Terracotta Warriors, a Taoist temple and the Muslim Quarter) with her. As expected, our time with Lecia was absolutely delightful. We also visted Hangzhou and Guangzhou after Lecia left. All together we spent exactly a month in China.
Hangzhou Railway Station Metro Queue Muslim Quarter, Xian Forbidden Palace Beijing Railway Station
One thing totally unexpected, for me, is how very crowded China is. 1,400 billion people is just a number to me. Experiencing a country with so many people in reality meant crowds and queues everywhere. The Chinese also have very different cultural norms around personal space. People get right up against you in lines and I was often pushed, shoved and uncomfortably crowded.
Bamboo Tree, Guangxio Temple, Guangzhou Guangzhou, China Hangzhou West Lake Hangzhou Railway Station View from Xian City WallLiahu Park, Xian, China Hangzhou West Lake
An unexpected, but very pleasant aspect of China was how much natural beauty there is. We expected to see beautiful and historic places, and we did. But we also visted lovely city parks, small temples and just city streets with lovely greenery. This was very nice in cities full of enormous, rather unattractive, skyscrapers.
Hangzhou Walking Street Forbidden Palace, Beijing African Merchants in the Guangzhou Airport
I think the thing that made China most exhausting was the fact that there are very few black visitors there. Everywhere we went we were stopped for pictures. We experienced this is Vietnam as well. However in China were were really stared at, pointed at and at times felt we were being laughed at. I have heard this is not just something black folks experience in China. All non-Chinese experience it to some degree. Interestingly, Guangzhou has the largest number of African ex-pats (over 10,000) in all of China. We were rarely asked for pictures there and were pointed and stared at much less.
Chinese Metro I loved seeing all the very fashionable Chinese women. Hangzhou MallHigh Speed Train Guangzhou Metro Station
I was pleasantly and unexpectedly surprised by the level of affluence we saw in the cities we visited. We saw none of the abject poverty that friends, who had visited in years past, had prepared me for. The Chinese seem to be doing very well. This was reflected in higher prices than we have experienced in other parts of Asia. China is definitely the most expensive country we have visited. This includes food, hotel and transportation costs. Another wonderful, if unexpected, experience was the excellent public transportation in all 4 cities we visited. We went everywhere by bus or subway and despite our non-existent Chinese we never got lost.
Black Old Lesbians Traveling
We were somewhat prepared for, but still found difficult, communications in China. Facebook, Google, Gmail, You Tube, Instagram are all blocked in China. I was able to get on by using a VPN, Hide My Ass, however this was very sporadic. We usually have no difficulty buying cell phone service in the countries we visit but found it very difficult to do so in China. This meant relying on the wifi provided by our hotels which was also iffy. There is virtually no English spoken in most places but charades type sign language and having important things (hotel names, places we wanted to visit) written out in Chinese was very helpful.
Kathy at the Great Wall Me in Hangzhou
So overall, we are very grateful for our visit to China, for safe travels, new experiences and one more country under the BOLT belt.
Kwan Yin, Always With Us, Guangzhou, China
Do you have a Chinese experience to share or question to ask?
We’d love to hear from you in the comments section below.
Pack Light: One of the greatest gifts I ever received from travel was when I walked the Camino de Santiago in Spain. This was long before Face Book and Twitter but the internet was available and I joined
a few chat groups about the walk before actually embarking on it. The one piece of advice I read over and again was not to bring much, the Camino will provide. I was living in a Buddhist monastery at the time and didn’t have much so I was thrilled to follow the advice although I still carried too much.
Even so my watch broke at the airport the day I left. I lost a book during a layover in Amsterdam. And I arrived in Madrid with one backpack and a brand new 2-person tent and a disposable camera. (Told you I over packed.) But an amazing thing happened. Without the book I was forced to chat with people. Without the watch I had no way to schedule things so my days were free. The camera had a limited number of snaps so soon I was free from taking photos. I simply was. I was one woman on the Camino. I was one person walking westward. I was one human drinking coffee in small cafes near tiny villages. I was free to be. And I was.
BTW the Camino did provide. I didn’t use the tent once.
Be Present:When I was in Peace Corps, there was this young woman who I sat near during our daily trainings. Everyday she would glance around the gazebo we used and shout “We’re in Fucking Africa!” and grin with such joy her body shook. Everyday the rest of us had a reminder to be present and realize we were privileged and how terrific our lives were. At that moment no matter what else was happening we had an opportunity to stop and appreciate where we were and how beautiful it was.
Turn Off Your Toys: When we were in Bali, Marci and I were invited to a Balinese funeral. I had read a few things about these funerals and really wanted to go and record the experience so we could show our friends. But as we walked up we realized that this was no place to document our travels. This was one of those things we would have to talk about but not tweet about. And for us that was perfect. I felt more relaxed once I didn’t or couldn’t photograph the happenings. It was certainly photo worthy with people dancing and entranced to the point of waving knives around. But it was also so personal that I would have felt intrusive if we had taken a few pics for the blog. Instead we felt welcomed and the community seemed quite proud to share their ritual with outsiders. We smiled politely and watched. It was one of the best times I have had on this never-ending journey of ours. We are grateful.
Share with us a time the world opened up and surprised you. Were you seeing it through a camera lens or were you letting you mind wander? Did it sneak up on you in the early morning? Were you making your way home after work? Leave us a comment. Thank you.
We enjoy the best days of our lives because of the past struggles of our ancestors
UNKNOWN
Since we’ve been traveling Marci and I have discovered that our entire lives are actually prayers to the ancestors. Mostly prayers of gratitude. It is the knowledge that without those black survivors we would not be here in this place. Where ever this place may be. Without them we would not have the wherewithal to live lives of travel.
Once we began living our dream, we discovered we owe it all to someone other than ourselves. Sure we sold our things and actually got on the road. But none of this is possible without my mother who worked as a cashier at a grocery store and sent two of her three children to college. Or Marci’s mom Muriel who lived and died a communist and socialist, who worked in a finance office, a place that was the antithesis of what she believed in. To them we are of course grateful.
But it is the innumerable others. Women and men who live and died knowing their dreams would not come true in their lifetimes. The ones who knew vicerally that one day in a distant future their children’s children would have choices and freedoms unknown before. We are most grateful for them.
I read somewhere that the pyramids were built over generations. Those who began the project never saw the end result. So to begin something like that takes a different level of faith. A faith that someone will carry on the work. A faith that what is being created is worth the effort of generations. Dreams are like that. They need faith and constant tending even in the face of death.
With faith that our every moment is witnessed by them. We say thank you to our ancestors, with whose faith we have achieved our dreams.
To whom do you owe more than you realized? Tell us about your ancestors and parents. Drop us a comment. Thanks.
In a recent post I shared a great idea, Travel With Balls. But if balls are not your thing, how about books. When we traveled to Africa Kathy and I let our friends know, in advance, that we would be taking books to donate to children there.
International travel baggage allowances are such that we were able to collect and take 100 pounds (2 large suitcases full) to Africa. We donated half to the Leaders of Tomorrow Children’s Home in Tanzania. The children there all took turns reading to us. It is a wonderful memory.
The other books went to Zambia where we had a fine time giving books to the children of Chipate Village.
We even had the privilege of sharing a book with this hardworking sister.
Coloring books and crayons are another thing that bring joy to children everywhere.
Book bags and school supplies are also much appreciated and easy to travel with.
We connected with this village teacher. She’s sitting on one of the suitcases, filled with supplies and books for her students.
So, if not books or balls, BOLT encourages you to think about traveling with something that you can give away. I promise you will gain much more than you give!
What are your thoughts and experiences on giving back while traveling. We’d love to hear from you, please leave us a comment.
BOLT is currently traveling in the People’s Republic of China. We have pre-loaded this post as we expect to be without connections for a while.
Jan and William Zoochie have a great idea. Wherever you go…travel with balls. There are two things you are pretty much assured of seeing when you travel: children and balls. Balls are a kind of universal language. They help you make friends everywhere you go.
Balls can be inexpensively purchased at local stores, giving a small boost to the economy. They can then be given away to local children or teens, giving an enormous boost to the spirt. Share a picture or video of this on the TWB Facebook page.
Chiang Rai, Thailand
BOLT tries to remember to travel with balls, everywhere we go. We are currently in the People’s Republic of China, without much internet access (this post has been pre-loaded). However, I’m sure we will have access to balls and children. We look forward to sharing our pictures and stories with you soon.
BOLT will be visiting the People’s Republic of China for a while. We are looking forward to this new adventure and all the wonderful things we will see and the people we will meet. Internet access is different in the PRC. There is no Facebook, Instagram or Gmail. WiFi may be less reliable than what we have been experiencing in other parts of Asia.
If you need to reach us you can try us at boltraveling@outlook.com. If you don’t hear from us for a while, trust that we are well and enjoying our amazing life of home free travel.
Kuala Lumpur is not a city I expected to fall in love with. It’s an enormous city, one which I knew absolutely nothing about. I saw it as a brief stop on our way to more beautiful places and exciting adventures. How wrong I was!
This is our third visit to K.L. and without a doubt it will not be our last. I thought to share with you the top reasons why Kathy and I love this city. I do have an ulterior motive…I hope you will be inspired to come and see K.L. for your self.
MUD, The Musical
Reason #1: The Diversity
Kuala Lumpur (and all of Malaysia) is a really wonderful mix of ethnicities, religions and cultures. Ethnic Chinese and Indians as well as Malays are the main groups. For me, it’s not just that there is ethnic diversity, it’s that it is acknowledged, celebrated and respected. We see this in the museums, billboards and all walks of life. There is even an ongoing musical, Mud, that joyfully tells the K.L. story of inclusivity.
Batu Caves, Site of the largest Hindu celebration outside of India. Ramadan display in a local mall.Buddhist Center Small Hindu Temple Our Lady of Fatima, Catholic Church National Mosque Jewish Community Center
Reason #2 Religious Freedom and Sites
Malaysia is a Muslim country where freedom of religion is constitutionally guaranteed. We greatly appreciate this, especially visiting the many beautiful and varied places of worship found in K.L.
Our Favorite Indian SpotLaksaNasi Lemak
Reason #3 The Food!!!!!
I really don’t have words to describe the party in your mouth that is the eating you can do in Kuala Lumpur! From our personal favorite, Southern Indian cuisine, to the devine nasi lemak, delicious dining is a definite reason to visit K.L. By the way, you can find pretty good pizza and burgers if you get a hankering for western foods.
Reason #4 It’s a Rainforest!
Kuala Lumpur is the only city with dedicated space to preserve a rainforest. Bukit Nanas is right in city center. It’s an amazing spot with suspension walkways, beautiful views and a great chance to exercise.
Reason #5 Great Transportation
K.L. has truly amazing and inexpensive public transportation. High speed tains, monorails, reliable public buses and even a free hop on hop off bus for tourists makes this city easy to explore.
#6 The Sights, Sounds and Shopping
Day or night, Kuala Lumpur has some of the best sightseeing spots we’ve experienced. The museums are great, there are beautiful and historic neighborhoods like Brickfields Little India and Chinatown. K.L. is also home to the world’s largest twin towers, the Petronas Towers. Shopping is great here too. Lots of bargains in Brickfields and Chinatown and there are plenty of high end malls and stores as well.
So, I could probably find a 100 reasons more why I love this fabulous city but I have to get ready for our plane to Beijing, China. Hope you enjoy this post and will seriously consider a trip to Kuala Lumpur. If you have any questions or comments, as always we love hearing from you.
This is a post I’ve wanted to write for a while. I’m trying to find ways to express succinctly what is on my heart and in my mind. Being Black is such a large part of who we are. Kathy and I are intentionally Black, consciously Black and unapologetically Black. It’s not about hate for non-blacks. It’s a love thing.
Our blackness, not just our skin, but our thinking, our memories, our very essence goes with us everywhere we go. We have found great blessings traveling Black and a few challenges.
Bali, Indonesia
One of the greatest gifts of travel has been our heightened sense of appreciation for black folks, especially in places where there are not a lot of us. Walking down Crenshaw in Los Angeles, California I always smiled and gave a nod to my peeps. But seeing a black man or woman in Southeast Asia is a different experience. It’s an opportunity for conversation, exchanging experiences and most of all a chance to share a little black love.
Glacier National Park
And this is not an experience unique to Asia. Traveling across the U.S.A., visiting National Parks we rarely see other Black folks. We went days and miles on a trip up to Canada. We were delighted to meet a Black couple in Glacier National Park, Wyoming. We had a good laugh when we realized we were all from California.
Chipate Village, Zambia Chipate Village, Zambia
Traveling Black in Africa increases our commitment to love and serve Black folk, all across the diaspora. It also is a great reality check for the privilege that comes with our American passports and lifestyle.
Hair Care Day, Chipate Village, Zambia
It reminds us of our commonalities, especially with other Black women.
Ubud, Bali, Indonesia Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Traveling Black strengthens our love for and connections to people of color. The Malaysian man, next to Kathy, in the picture above commented on their identical skin tone and the beauty there. Celebrating diversity is one more thing to love about traveling Black.
Sultans Water Palace, Yogyakarta, Java, IndonesiaHanoi, Vietnam
The biggest challenge so far in traveling Black has been an ocasional sense of isolation and of being on display, a curiosity. We felt this most acutely in Vietnam where our skin was often stroked, our hair frequently gently pulled. It never felt malicious or racist. I know racism and colorism exist everywhere, but to paraphrase the late, great Muhammad Ali, no one in Southeast Asia has ever called me or anyone I love a nigger. I for sure can’t say that about the USA!
Pasadena, California
Traveling Black is a chance to explore your entrepreneurial side. We love shopping and bringing back beautiful things from all over the world.
Charlotte and Pete Hill O'Neal, Arusha, Tanzania New and Old Friends, New Orleans, Louisiana Aida Ayers, Creative Solutions, Zanzibar
Traveling Black is a great way to make new friends and to connect with old. In this digital age it is very easy to make connections and stay connected. Black Americans Living Abroad is a great Facebook group for just that purpose. Nomadness Tribe and Travel Noire are both wonderful sites as well. One of the best parts about traveling Black is doing it with people you love and respect.
My friend, Lecia, reminded me today that it’s been a while since we posted a BOLT review. We left, what feels like our second home, Chiang Mai on Thursday. It’s a beautiful day here in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia, a great day to take a little time to share our opinions about Chiang Mai.
We both love Chiang Mai. The ancient part of the city, surrounded by a moat is so beautiful, full of sacred sites. We find it very healing. It is also very walkable, which is important to us.
There is also the Chiang Mai that is new, modern and fabulous! We are able to find anything we need or want.
The food in Chiang Mai is some of the best we have had anywhere, and very affordable too.
When we get tired of Thai food there are lots of other options to choose from.
And lots of fresh fruits and vegetables!
Accommodations in Chiang Mai are abundant and very affordable. For the last 2 months we stayed at a studio apartment with pool for less than $ 250 a month! It was simple and clean, no frills.
There are also plenty of beautiful higher end accommodations.
There is a lot to do in Chiang Mai. The city has frequent cultural festivals, many museums and there are beautiful temples at every turn.
We love our evening walks along the moat.
There are literally massages on every block and one hour is generally less than $ 10.
You can try something new, like this fish spa.
Thai people are very polite, friendly and helpful. It’s great staying somewhere long enough to get to know our neighbors.
The only thing that would make Chiang Mai better (for us) would be more visitors from home. If you are intrigued or have any questions we would love to hear from you in the comments section below.